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Gerbils: a history

Gerbils, i.e. Mongolian gerbils, are small rodents with long furry tails that have a tuft of fur at the end. They are larger than mice, but smaller than typical hamsters (syrian hamsters, not dwarf hamsters).

The wild type coloration is “agouti”, where each hair is banded, usually gray next to the skin, then a yellowish colour, then ticked with black, with off-white hair on the belly. However, through selective breeding, several lovely colour variations are now seen.

In their dry native habitats of Asia and Africa gerbils have few natural enemies and seem more curious than fearful of humans. The Mongolian gerbil, the most common species sold in stores, is a born burrower and will develop networks of tunnels with food storage, nesting, and sleeping sites. Gerbils are 4-6 inches long, excluding the tail, and have a lifespan of 3-5 years.

The gerbil family is made up of roughly 100 species. There are 14 basic groups of gerbils. The species most commonly kept as pets is the Mongolian Gerbil, whose scientific name is Meriones unguiculatus. Gerbils whose scientific name begin with “Meriones” are also known as “jirds” which roughly means “large desert rodent”.

The Mongolian gerbil is therefore also known as the Clawed Jird. Other jirds also kept as pets include Sundevall’s Jird (Meriones crassus), the Libyan Jird (Meriones libycus), and Shaw’s Jird (Meriones shawi). Shaw’s Jird is large, even tempered and makes a good pet, and when fanciers use the term jird they are often referring to this species. Therefore, the term “gerbil” most commonly refers to the Mongolian Gerbil, and the term “jird” most commonly refers to Shaw’s Jird. Confused? There’s more:

There are two other species of gerbil which do not belong to the genus Meriones, but that are also referred to as jirds. These are the Bushy Tailed Jird (Sekeetamys calurus), and the Fat Tailed Jird (Pachyuromys duprasis). However, these are more commonly referred to as the “bushy tail” and the “duprasi” respectively. There are many other species of gerbil, some of which are less commonly kept as pets, but they are too numerous to cover here.

Gerbil fans say that gerbils make good pets due to their temperament, and ease of care. They tend to be easily tamed and are not as skittish as some other small rodents.

They also aren’t as inclined to bite unless threatened (as always there are exceptions). Coming from a dry natural habitat they are designed to conserve water, so produce scant urine and dry droppings, making it fairly easy to keep their cage fresh and clean.

They go through several sleep/active cycles in the course of 24 hours, although they do tend to be more active at night. They are very curious and will explore anything, and can be quite entertaining. Gerbils are social animals, living in colonies in the wild, so do not do well as a solitary pet.

Keeping a same sex pair (litter mates usually do well together) is much preferred. If you have a single older gerbil, it can be difficult to introduce a new one though as they are quite territorial.

Chinchillas: routine health care

We are all familiar with the phrase “A healthy pet is a happy pet” – but there is probably also something to be said for keeping your chinchilla happy in order to maintain its health. If you know your pet you will probably quickly recognise the signs that suggest it is not well.

A healthy chinchilla will have bright eyes, clean ears, eyes and nose and be interested in what is going on around it.

If your chinchilla’s weight remains constant then they are eating the right amount of food. You should be concerned if their appetite or water consumption suddenly changes or they suddenly start to gain or lose weight. When in good condition the coat should be shiny, soft and free of parasites.

Your chinchilla must be fed a healthy diet and allowed regular exercise.

The closer your chinchilla’s diet and environment is compared to how it would eat and live in the wild, the healthier and happier it will be. Giving them plenty of enrichment in also hugely important for their mental wellbeing.

A healthy diet is a balanced diet containing all the nutrients your pet requires.

Chinchillas are herbivores, which means they only eat vegetable matter e.g. hay and/or alfalfa. This can be supplemented with a pelleted diet if you choose.

There are a number of measures that can help prevent your pet developing diseases. You should discuss the special needs of your pet with your vet.

Neutering

It is a sad truth that the number of pets born every year is far greater than the number of good homes that can be found for them. As a result, thousands of healthy animals are destroyed and many unwanted ones are abandoned. Neutering is a common procedure in rabbits and chinchillas can also be neutered.

Vaccinations

Chinchillas do not require vaccinations.

Dental care

All rodents and rabbits have front teeth that grow continuously, so a high fibre diet of hay and/or grass is essential to allow the teeth to wear down naturally.

If you notice any signs of overlong teeth then your vet will be able to burr the teeth down and advise you further.

If your chinchilla has a poor coat condition, dull eyes, dirty ears, eyes or nose it may indicate that they are unwell. Changes in behaviour (a normally happy and affectionate animal may become grumpy and avoid human contact, preferring to hide away by itself), altered appetite or water consumption should also alert you to the possibility that there may be a problem.

Most animals recover from illness in 24-48 hours – if your pet does not seem to be improving in this time or is getting worse then you should contact your vet.

Chinchillas: feeding a healthy diet

When chinchillas were first imported from South America – into the United States initially, and then into Europe – people found it really difficult, at first, to keep them alive in captivity. This was mainly because of a lack of understanding of what wild chinchillas eat. Chinchillas are entirely herbivorous (they only eat vegetable matter) and where they live in the wild, most of the vegetation is quite fibrous and dry, not lush and juicy! They eat grasses and other low-growing greenstuff, and chew the bark off trees.

Chinchillas need a diet that is high in fibre, quite high in protein, but low in moisture and very low in fat. High fat foods will cause liver disease and greenstuff that is too lush will give them colic or bloat. A diet lacking in fibre will cause poor gut movement, and allow the teeth to get overgrown. Chinchilla teeth, like those of rabbits and guinea pigs, grow constantly throughout the life of the animal, and need to be worm down by constant chewing.

The most important part of the diet for your chinchilla is hay. There should always be hay available. It must be good quality hay – sweet smelling, not musty, and certainly without any trace of mould. Feed the hay in a small rack and refill it each day, removing any that’s been pulled out of the rack.

Alfalfa block are much less messy, but some chinchillas don’t like them. You can give them a try, but don’t stop giving hay completely until you are sure your chinchilla is happy eating alfalfa. It is important that your chinchilla eats plenty of fibre.

Chinchilla pellets can be a convenient food source. However they should be rationed (except for pregnant or lactating females or very underweight chinchillas). A healthy adult chinchilla needs about a heaped tablespoon of pellets each day. If he is still hungry, he should be encouraged to eat more hay.

Chinchilla mixes are also available but these vary in quality. A good chinchilla mix should be high in fibre and have a fat level of 3% or less. It should be sold in small sealed packets, and smell sweet and fresh once opened. The problem with mixes is that they allow the chinchilla to select his favourite items and leave the rest – which may mean that he ends up with less than a balanced diet. This can be controlled to some extent by only feeding a small amount at a time and not topping the bowl up when it is empty. Muesli mixes should be avoided.

Ideally pellets should be fed as they prevent selective feeding. However, they come in two types; the genuine chinchilla pellet is very thin, long and very, very hard, giving lots of good gnawing exercise. The other type is broader, shorter and more crumbly (more like rabbit pellets) – these are of poorer quality.

Most chinchillas, especially young animals or mothers with kits, occasionally have fits caused by low calcium levels in the blood. This may be caused by the diet being too low in calcium or the chinchilla being unable to take up and use the calcium in the diet. In these cases, or if the chinchilla has developed tooth problems, your vet may suggest that you give a vitamin/mineral supplement. However, over-supplementation, or wrong supplementation can cause problems; so do check with your vet first.

Most chinchillas will do almost anything for a peanut, a raisin or a sunflower seed. Unfortunately, only one of these is a good idea – both peanuts and sunflower seeds are very high in fat so can contribute to liver disease (although the odd one or two every now and then won’t do much harm). Raisins and sultanas are treats traditionally fed to chinchillas, and yes, they are very sweet which could lead to dental disease if fed in large quantities, but they are generally safe treats to feed… in moderation!

Chinchillas are related to guinea pigs, but this doesn’t mean their diets are the same. Chinchillas cannot cope with very lush green vegetation, however, you can feed things like carrot and apple (in small quantities), they also like to chew on branches of apple, pear or mulberry, and will eat other course weeds like plantain. However, if you feed anything from the garden, make sure it is free of chemicals.

Any changes you make to your chinchilla’s diet must be made very slowly, adding just a very little of the new food to start with, and remember don’t feed anything too lush or watery.

High fat diets can cause liver disease and even death; this could be a cause of overfeeding sunflower seeds or peanuts.

Dental problems can be caused through lack of chewing; therefore plenty of hay should be fed along with a good quality pelleted feed. Teeth problems can also be due, in part, to poor calcium metabolism. Check your chinchilla’s teeth regularly to make sure they are healthy and to detect any early signs of dental disease – you can do this like you would check a rabbit’s teeth.

Digestive problems can be caused through feeding poor quality, mouldy hay. Ensure your chinchillas hay is stored properly; if rats or mice get access to it, then chinchillas may develop listeriosis, an often fatal disease which can also affect people.

Housing your ferret

Ferrets make wonderful pets because of their engaging personalities, playful activity and fastidious nature. Housing is important for your ferret, whether you keep them inside or outside.

They can easily be trained to use a litter box because they tend to habitually urinate and defecate in the same places. Provide a low-sided litter box for easy entry and exit. More than one litter box may be necessary if the ferret has free run of the house.

There is no innate animosity between ferrets and dogs and cats, and all can usually share a household with little difficulty. However, ferrets have been known to attack pet birds, so it is advisable for owners of both to take appropriate precautions to prevent these encounters.

Ferrets are naturally inquisitive and can squeeze through very small spaces. It is important to “ferret-proof” your house before bringing your pet home. Thoroughly check every room it will inhabit, sealing all holes and openings wider than 1 inch in diameter. Make sure that all windows that may be opened have secure screens. It is also important to check the openings around plumbing, heating and air conditioning ducts or pipes and gaps under doors.

Ferrets are small and silent, so you will usually not hear them approach. They are easily stepped on when they are sleeping under a throw rug or suddenly turn up under foot. Their love of tunneling and their inherent curiosity frequently places them in potentially dangerous situations.

They could very easily crawl unnoticed into your refrigerator, into the bottom boiler of a stove, through the rungs of a balcony railing, out the front door, or even end up in the washing machine with clothes under which the ferret was sleeping. Other dangers include folding sofa beds and reclining chairs. The obvious solution to avoiding accident and injury is to learn your ferret’s habits and be constantly vigilant.

To help protect your ferret, especially if it is allowed free run of the house, obtain an adjustable, lightweight cat collar, the kind with elastic on one end, a small bell, and an ID tag. The bell will signal that your ferret is underfoot or has perhaps slipped out the front door and will warn caged birds allowed unrestricted freedom in the home that the ferret is nearby. The collar also indicates to unknowing neighbors (many people have no idea what a ferret is) that whatever it is must belong to someone.

While ferrets are not destructive to most household items, such as furniture, clothing, etc, some have a tendency to chew on soft rubber or other soft materials. This is especially dangerous because the pieces of rubber can become impacted in your ferret’s intestines. This means that you should not give your ferret rubber squeak toys to play with either.

You should ensure that the cage is plenty big enough so that you can give your ferret plenty of toys to play with, tubes to run through and places to hide. You should also provide an enclosed area within the cage where your ferret can go and sleep. If your ferret is kept in a cage you will need to let it out regularly for exercise, either in a safe enclosure outside or in a dedicated “ferret-proof” room of the house.

Ferrets are especially fond of tunnelling under things, like towels, and prefer to sleep in this manner, so make sure you provide plenty of possible nesting material so your ferret can exhibit it’s natural behaviour.

You can use hay, straw or wood shavings on the floor of the cage to make it easy to clean, and they will most probably use the hay and straw to tunnel through as well. Make sure the bedding you use isn’t dusty as this can irritate their eyes. Ferrets are naturally very clean and will usually use one or two corners of the cage for toilet purposes. These areas can be lined with paper and wood shavings so daily cleaning is quick and easy.

Viral and bacterial infections in ferrets

Ferrets are prone to a number of viral and bacterial infections. There are vaccines available to prevent some of these, but good management practices go a long way to lower the risks of infectious disease in ferrets.

Ferrets are not susceptible to the viruses that commonly produce upper respiratory disease in domestic cats (rhinotracheitis, calicivirus), nor are they susceptible to canine hepatitis. There is also no definitive evidence that ferrets are susceptible to canine parvovirus or feline leukemia virus; therefore, vaccination against these diseases is probably unnecessary.

The most commonly seen viral disease in ferrets include canine distemper and influenza; rabies, epizootic catarrhal enteritis and Aleutian disease are occasionally seen.

Ferrets are susceptible to infection with several strains of human influenza (“flu”) virus. Signs of this illness may mimic those of canine distemper (listlessness, fever, poor appetite, sneezing, nasal discharge, etc). In general, influenza causes only mild disease in ferrets. Unlike distemper, however, influenza usually passes within 5 days of the onset of illness and ferrets recover. Bacterial infections may complicate the viral infection. If you are suffering from a cold or flu, it is advisable not to handle your ferret until you are well again.

A few cases of lymphoma and lymphosarcoma (cancer) have occurred in ferrets over the years. Some of these cases tested positive for feline leukemia virus, while others tested negative. Though a cause-and-effect relationship cannot be proven by such a small number of cases, the possibility exists that ferrets may become infected with feline leukemia virus. Cancer can be one possible result of such an infection. Some researchers believe that leukemia and related diseases among ferrets may be caused by a virus or viruses specific to ferrets.

Bacterial infections aren’t as common as viral infections in ferrets, however a number of bacteria can produce a variety of diseases in ferrets, including botulism, tuberculosis, dysentery (caused by Campylobacter fetus), and abscesses and infections caused by bite wounds and other injuries.

Bacterial pneumonia, proliferative colitis (proliferative bowel disease) and helicobacter gastritis have also been seen in ferrets.

Bacterial pneumonia usually occurs secondary to another disease, such as viral pneumonia. Signs of infection can include nasal discharge, difficulty breathing, increased respiratory rate, loss of appetite, lethargy, discolouration of the mucous membranes, and fever.

Proliferative colitis and helicobacter gastritis causes diarrhoea which leads to severe weight loss. These are often referred to as “wasting diseases” because of the rapid weight loss seen. They occur in ferrets of any age, but most commonly affect young kits up to 20 weeks of age.

Judicious use of antibiotics is usually sufficient for treatment of most, but not all, of these conditions.

Parasitic diseases in ferrets

Most of the external parasites of domestic dogs and cats (fleas, mange, ear mites, etc.) can cause disease in ferrets. However, less is known about the ferret’s susceptibility to the more common internal parasites (roundworms, etc.) of dogs and cats.

Ferrets can suffer from both internal and external parasitic diseases.

Although internal parasitic diseases are uncommon, ferrets can suffer from intestinal parasites.

Ferrets are commonly affected by external parasites such as mites, ticks and fleas.

Intestinal protozoan parasites, also shared by dogs and cats, can cause intestinal disease among ferrets. Coccidiosis is the most common intestinal parasitic disease of ferrets.

Infection with worms (helminths) is rare, but roundworms can potentially pass between ferrets, puppies and kittens. Cryptosporidiosis, a parasitic disease caused by Cryptosporidium, is also occasionally seen in young ferrets, and can potentially pass between ferrets, puppies and kittens. Other protozoan diseases are possible, but rarely seen.

Most ferrets with intestinal parasites won’t show any signs of being infected. However, the following signs may be seen: diarrhoea (with or without blood), weight loss, dehydration, decreased activity, dull hair coat, straining to defaecate, prolapse of the ferret’s rectum, and even death.

Periodic faecal examinations should be performed by your vet to check for such parasites.

Most intestinal parasites can be treated with antiparasitic drugs. Hospitalization may be required in severe cases, but most can be treated with a spot on treatment which is easy to give and stress-free for your ferret.

External parasites are common in ferrets.

Ferrets housed indoors rarely have a problem with fleas or ticks. Fleas and ticks are more common in ferrets that spend time outdoors or who come into contact with infected dogs or cats. Mange and ear mites are common in both ferrets that are housed indoors and those that live outdoors.

Fleas can cause itchiness in your ferret which will result in red patches of skin, scabs and hair loss. Severe infestations can cause blood loss and weakness. Infestations need to be treated vigorously; the ferret, its home environment, and all infested household pets must be treated with an appropriate anti-flea treatment.

Ticks are rarely a problem, but if you do find a tick on your ferret make sure you wear gloves when removing them to avoid exposure to their disease-carrying saliva.

Mange, also known as scabies, is caused by microscopic Sarcoptes scabiei mites. These will cause your ferret to scratch resulting in red patches of skin, scabs and hair loss. Mange also affects the foot pads, known as foot rot, where the feet become red, swollen and sore. Your vet will probably need to do a skin scrape to determine the cause of the itching as the mites cannot be seen with the naked eye.

Ear mites will cause your ferret to scratch its ears or rub its head on the floor in an attempt to scratch its ears. Your ferret may have a dark, waxy discharge from the ear, and in severe cases, your ferret may develop an infection which will require antibiotics.

Most external parasites can be treated with antiparasitic drugs. Most can be treated with a spot on treatment which is easy to give and stress-free for your ferret. However, if your ferret is suffering with ear mites, a more aggressive treatment regime may be necessary which will involve an ointment which will need to be placed directly into your ferret’s ears.

Miscellaneous health problems in ferrets

Two medical conditions of ferrets that demand special mentions are the ferret’s extreme susceptibility to canine distemper and the unusual consequences of female ferrets coming into heat. These are therefore covered in separate factsheets.

However, there are other medical conditions that affect ferrets that are briefly covered here.

Ferrets lack sweat glands and are somewhat compromised in their ability to maintain normal body temperature in extremely warm environmental temperatures.

If the temperature rises above 32°C/90°F, and if water is restricted or not available to ferrets, heat exhaustion is likely and death quite possible. Providing ample shade and spraying your ferret on hot days will help reduce the likelihood of this problem.

Ferrets can also suffer from either kidneys or urinary bladder stones, which can cause serious problems in ferrets. Both sexes seem to be affected equally.

Signs of urinary stones include blood in the urine, inability to urinate, a swollen and painful abdomen, vomiting, lack of energy and poor appetite.

Surgery is usually necessary to correct this problem, though a special diet may eliminate certain types of stones or prevent recurrence.

Cardiomyopathy is a condition of the heart muscle seen in dogs and cats, which ferrets can also suffer from. Most affected ferrets are males over 3 years of age. The cause for this condition is unknown.

The muscle walls of the heart become thickened, reducing the ability of the heart to pump adequate quantities of blood to the rest of the body. Signs include poor appetite, fatigue, increased periods of sleep, intolerance to exercise, fainting and shortness of breath.

Cardiomyopathy is diagnosed using chest x-rays, an electrocardiogram (ECG), and echocardiography (EKG). All ferrets older than 3 years should have an EKG to screen for this disease.

Ferrets are prone to ringworm, which is a fungal disease of the skin, similar to Athlete’s foot in humans. It has been reported in young ferrets and may be transmitted by infected cats.

As a rule of thumb, products manufactured and intended for use in and on cats (dewormers, flea products, ringworm medications, etc.) are safe and suitable for use with ferrets, with one exception: flea collars should never be used on ferrets.

Canine distemper in ferrets

Ferrets are highly susceptible to canine distemper – a disease normally seen in dogs that is transmitted through moisture droplets. Dogs usually pick it up when sniffing where infected dogs have been, and since the incubation period can be as long as three weeks, it is usually too late to vaccinate once any outbreak has begun.

The initial signs of the disease appear 7-10 days after exposure to the virus and include a lack of interest in food and a thick mucus and pus-laden discharge from the eyes and nostrils.

A rash commonly appears under the chin and in the groin area 10-12 days following exposure, and the pads on the feet become greatly thickened.

Prevention of this disease should be an absolute priority because treatment is useless. Canine distemper is considered 100% fatal in ferrets, with infected ferrets dying approximately 3 1/2 weeks after initial exposure.

Kits should first be vaccinated against canine distemper at 6-8 weeks of age (4-6 weeks of age if kits are from unvaccinated mothers).

A booster vaccination is essential 2-3 weeks later. Yearly boosters are recommended thereafter.

Feeding your ferret

Ferrets have unique feeding requirements. They are carnivores and are unable to obtain nutrients from vegetable matter; the food they eat also passes through their digestive system very quickly. For this reason their diet needs to be high in animal protein, fat and low in fibre. A ferret thrives on a varied diet, so the more varied you can make your ferret’s diet, the better.

There are a few specially designed dry complete ferret foods available and are specifically formulated to provide all the nutrients a ferret needs.

The base of your ferret’s diet should consist of a dry food, this is recommended over semi-moist and canned food alternatives because the soft food can lead to gum and dental disease. Once you have a good dry food you can also offer other food to make their diet more varied.

Eggs

These can be offered as an occasional treat either cooked or raw.

Fish

Ferrets aren’t so keen on fish, but it can still be offered as an occasional treat if your ferrets decided they like it.

Meat and bones

Ferrets love both cooked and raw meat, in particular rabbit, poultry and mice. Raw meat should be given fresh and don’t worry about the bones, ferrets can eat bones and they are a great source of calcium, marrowbone and minerals.

Other treats that can be given, but in very small quantities, and not on a regular basis, include:

  • cooked vegetables
  • non-acidic fruits, e.g. raisins, banana and coconut

Food to avoid completely include:

  • dairy products unless they are lactose-free)
  • salty/sugary/spicy food
  • nuts
  • cat/dog food

Most of these cause tummy upsets, even if fed in relatively small quantities, and so are best avoided.

This really is up to you. You could either leave a bowl of dry food for them all the time, this way they can eat when they are hungry, or you could give them a couple of feeds a day, either way, you will soon learn which method is best for your ferret.

You should also remember that your ferret should always have access to fresh, clean water. This can be offered in either a water bottle or a heavy ceramic dish to avoid spillage.

Behaviour

Ferrets make wonderful pets because of their engaging personalities, playful activity and fastidious nature. They can also be easily trained to use a litter tray because they tend to habitually urinate and defaecate in the same places.

Ferrets are extremely intelligent, naturally inquisitive and generally have an affinity for people, and the older a ferret is, the more mellow it is likely to become.

To ensure you interact better and bond with your ferret, it is important that you understand your ferret’s behaviour. The following are some of the most common ferret traits.

This is seen in response to fear, and if so is usually accompanied by hissing and/or their hair standing on end; if this happens to your ferret, the best thing to do is to leave him be until he calms down. Ferrets also back-up when they go to the toilet, which is usually into the corner of their litter tray or run.

Young ferrets (kits) tend to be nippy, but no more so than a new kitten or puppy, however they tend to nip with a little more enthusiasm! Some kits never nip at all, but those that do usually grow out of it.

Many new owners mistake nipping for viciousness, even though the same behaviour in a new kitten or puppy is accepted, but nipping is normal play behaviour between littermates and is often transferred to their human companions. Because this can be the case, parents should not allow small children to play with kits to avoid any unecessary nipping behaviour.

There have been a number of documented cases of ferret attacks on infants and very small children, some of which involved serious injury to the child. Parents must either forbid encounters between pet ferrets and their infants or very young children, or closely supervise all of these encounters. It is important to point out, however, that these unfortunate encounters are far less common than those involving household dogs and cats.

If accompanied by backing-up and/or hissing, a puffy tail probably means that your ferret is frightened and should be left alone to calm down.

On the other hand, if your ferret’s tail becomes puffy while investigating his environment or playing, it will mean he is very excited.

The meaning behind this normally depends on what is happening at the time.

Hissing could mean your ferret is angry or frightened and you should leave him along to calm down, or if playing with other ferrets, hissing can be a means of communication.

Your ferret’s body language will usually give your ferret’s mood away!

Ferrets can often be seen shivering or trembling. This usually occurs when they first wake up and is due to excitement and anticipation.

Ferrets very rarely shiver because they are cold.

Like dogs, this is a sign of excitement, and is usually seen when they are playing.